GUY CHIC

I've been blogging now for a month and a half and realize I need to spend quality time with the grooms. For me, wedding fashion is fascinating because most bridal silhouettes are borrowed from evening wear and I love, love, love dressing up to go to out at night. Well, after some research, I'm finding mens formal wear is just as fascinating. Did you know the tux and tails so popular in wedding and formal fashion derive from hunting jackets and military uniforms?

Photos courtesy of Selix. http://www.selix.com/


Guys really have it easy. Typically, a groom and his groomsmen can shop a couple months pre-wedding for their tuxes and look great whereas a bride and her party seem to have to spend months devoted to the dress search. After the dress is found that's not the end of it. There are months of fittings, choosing colors for bridesmaids, etc. Shopping becomes a social thing with mothers and bridesmaids--something that could easily turn into a hobby.
For grooms choosing a tux or formal wear has never been so streamlined. Today you just point and click. The tux at left is classic; I found it on Selix, one of the most comprehensive websites for formalwear and this is only one of many styles offered.
To read more about mens formal wear, I wrote an article for Pash Weddings on the subject. :http://www.pashweddings.com/content/articles/122/1/Groom-Chic-A-Look-at-Traditional-Formalwear/Page1.html


SHOPPING 102: BEYOND THE SALON


Want an edgier look than what you’re finding in the salons? Want to go western or sport some other look like a to-the-floor suit you can’t get going the traditional route? Or maybe you do want that traditional look but need to look for it at a better price. Going beyond the salon is a great option then.

DEPARTMENT STORES AND SPECIALTY BOUTIQUES

Even though boutiques don’t necessarily carry bridal, the extraordinary dresses they do have can sometimes be special ordered in white or ivory. In the 1960s, boutiques like Paraphernalia in New York gained popularity by offering one-of-a-kind clothing with an edge and since then have become the best fashion labs for designers as well as clients. Think about this: Almost any white dress has potential to be a wedding dress as long as it works with your accessories, fits within the scene and theme of your wedding and you absolutely love it. Also, if you’re not into wearing white on your wedding day, boutiques and department stores might be your best option. Some stores work closely with up and coming specialty designers. With a little imagination and the help of professionals, you might be able to put some stunning looks together.
Also a great option if you don’t want to wait 4-6 months for your gown.

SECOND TIME AROUND BRIDAL SHOPS
Does the word ‘consignment’ scare you? Conjure images of Goodwill cast-offs in a store run by darling little old ladies? Walk in any bridal consignment shop these days and you’ll feel more like you’re in a high-end designer salon. With catchy names like Twice Bridal and One More Time, these shops offer some elegant, gently worn gowns in better shape than your average designer sample. In fact, the proprietors of these places can get real persnickety about what they take in—some only accepting top designer names like Vera Wang and Reem Acra. In addition, once gowns are accepted they’re cleaned and pressed to look new before they ever go on display. And think about it. They’ve only been worn once, isn’t that practically new?
Most inventory is ‘once-worn’ while the rest could be manufacturer over runs, designer samples bought at market or salon clearances. Additionally, every so often you’ll find that certain gown some bride ordered and for whatever reason, never wore.
If you’re price conscious this is the place to shop. Gowns that retailed last season for $3000-4000 are typically half off but sometimes can go for as little as $500-600.
More good news. You’re going to get very personalized assistance—the same as in a full service bridal salon. Though there will be re-altering involved, you won’t have to wait 4-6 months for your gown. Bear in mind once-worn gowns have already been pre-fit and altered to someone else’s body. Just make sure they’re once-worn; an over altered dress that’s been on more than one body could lose its original shape after a while. Ask how many and what kind of alterations the gown you want has had. Typically, if it’s gone through more than two brides, forget it. In addition to alterations your shop may offer customizing services (for a fee). Shops realize with previously-worn gowns, there’s a kind of possessive energy the new purchaser wants to create to make the gown her own. Therefore some shops focus on customizing.
FYI: Naturally bridal consignment shops don’t stock set sizes like salons do. Small and larger brides might have to work closely with staff and keep a lookout locating a gown in their size.

BRIDAL DISCOUNT OUTLETS
These are places like David's Bridal (the biggest) that offer everything for the bride, MOBs, flower girls, maids, even prom-goers. They are able to bring the prices down to rock bottom because of mass buying power. The looks you'll find though are pretty generic. There's nothing wrong with the dresses but then again, there usually isn't anything special about them either. Go to http://www.davidsbridal.com/ and you'll see what I mean.

VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES
Most Vintage clothing stores stock actual gowns from by-gone eras as well as ‘retro-inspired’ selections that are brand new. The bride in love with a particular era of clothing usually checks vintage clothing stores first. Not all brides opt for an actual gown that survived her favorite era though. Some choose a newer style reflecting the period instead. Why? Because that authentic 1925 chemise may be so delicate, without proper restoration it could literally fall apart. Think of gowns belonging to the ages like you would certain antiques: some so precious to be considered museum quality. Depending on restoration, the rule of thumb is, the older the gown the less they should be worn. If you are set on wearing that 1910 dress find a specialist in restoration who can advise. Also know your1910 dress can be an expensive but wise investment. For instance, if you invest in an original 50s-60s style, you’ll pay a lot less than the 1880s-1913 originals that, if intact, could be the equivalent to some down payments on a house.

THRIFT SHOPS AND FLEA MARKETS

Here’s where you’ll finally find those darling little old ladies. And they are charming. Especially if you’re a bride. Chances are, if you’ve gone this route to unearth real finds before, you already know your way around and what you’re doing, hopefully with the same eye that serious antique dealers and clothing collectors scout these markets often and with great skill. However, rummaging through flea markets and thrift stores takes a certain kind of bride—the kind who believes in recycling even on her wedding day; the kind that doesn’t give a damn whether she’s wearing hand-me-downs. If this is you, you’re a rarity. And yes, you’re likely to spend hours and days sorting through racks of Four Weddings and A Funeral cast-offs before you uncover that rare 1963 Pricilla of Boston original.


PRIVATE DESIGNERS

Go custom. This way you can get exactly what you want custom made to your measurements and your dress will be like no other in the world. Most custom designers can be found online but the best way to find one is to know a bride who had a custom designed gown you like. To read more about the custom designed gown go to: http://www.weddinggazette.com/content/002513.shtml


LINKS TO SOME OF MY FAVORITE ALTERNATIVES TO SALON SHOPPING

ENCORE BRIDAL-New and nearly new couture in the LA area. One of the best bridal blogs on the net is connected to this site.http://encorebridal.com/

SHADOWS-Vintage clothing and jewelry. A Northern California landmark. Clued up owners have been collecting vintage for years. They have some beautiful turn of the century pieces on display in the store.http://www.shadowsbridal.com/

GEORGIOU-One of the best places for shopping for suits and dresses. http://www.georgioustore.com/dresses3.htm

AMY-JO TATUM BRIDAL COUTURE-My website. I do custom and love it. www.amyjotatum.com

BLING!


More this week on accessories and amping up your glamour. Last night I ran accross this sweet little necklace on Etsy. Even sweeter is the description by designer, Kara at Coryell Design. How often can you read a product description that sounds like poetry? At Etsy all things creative are possible it seems. She handmade this piece above herself out of 100 freshwater pearls. While I can see this beautiful necklace paired up with just about any gown, a Jean Harlow body-hugging silhouette trumps them all.
Coryell has more. Start with her pearl and sterling silver earrings first. Go to http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=11116536

BRIDE MAIL: THE PETITE BRIDE



BrideMail@Bridechic.com
I'm 5' and very small boned. Most gowns I've tried on are for women that are 5'6. This means whenever I get in front of the mirror I'm swimming in the dress. Almost any sleeve, belt, print or lace looks magnified on me. What are my options?
One of the most important things for the vertically challenged to remember is scale. If you're petite and in shape, you can wear just about any gown as long as you scale down to the right proportion. Also thinking vertically (up, up, up) it will be easier to figure out which treatments suit you best. For instance, choose a bodice and neckline that draw the eye up to your decolletage. Here's more to consider.
GO FOR
*A gown with a panel or seam(s) running up the front. The unbroken lines give you height.
*Empire waists like the one at left are one of your best options considering you go floor length. You want to keep that vertical line going.
*A V or U neckline will give the impression of a longer neck.
*A mermaid. If you're slim and petite consider this style. It's fitted like an evening gown up top and has all the bounce and swirl of a ball gown below.
*An A-line like the one pictured below. Think of it as your very own scaled down version of a ballgown.
*Sheath and evening gown silhouettes like the one below. Long and columnar, they will flatter you.






*Choose length over volume in your skirt.
*Sleeves that are long and straight like the ones opposite.
*Best proportion is a floor length gown with a veil or train of the same length.
*If you are wearing a gown with a train and/or veil, keep the length just brushing the ground.
PASS UP:
*Any ball gown. The volume in the skirts will consume you.
*Heavy, elaborate fabrics like brocade or any print or design that is large.
*Wide belts, sashes and cummerbunds interrupt the vertical lines you want to create. If you do wear a sash or belt go thin (1-1 ½ inches) and as close to the shade of your gown as you can get.
*Any design with big puffy sleeves or shoulder pads.
*Any train or veil longer than a sweep.


Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum

411 ON BODICES

Photo by Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved
The bodice is the focal point, the epicenter of your gown and reflects the heart of its overall style. Which bodice you choose will determine whether or not your gown has sleeves, a collar, high or low neckline, lace overlays, etc. Proper fit of the bodice is especially crucial and the place the most exact measurements need to be taken. Because a bodice is either darted or seamed, it typically has the most shaped and sculpted seams of any other piece on your gown. Also it is the center from which most other components are attached and take form—the place your gown finally goes from a flat to a three dimensional piece of fabric sculpture. While a bodice may look pretty straight-forward from the outside, like the skirt, it may have a complex inner life of linings, facings, and shaping materials we never see but sense by the way the bodice holds it’s shape. For instance, the bodice on a typical wedding gown needs an underling to give it that sculpted form in addition to becoming a strong foundation with which to attach lace, trim or embroidery. Also, an underlining can hide casements within the bodice for boning, a material used to hold that strapless bodice up. We’ll discuss the understructure of your bodice as well as skirt in more detail later. Until then realize most bodices whether draped or closely fitted to your body, frequently have some kind of foundation of reinforcement beneath. Here are a few bodice treatments to consider.

Ruched-Left:Treatment of horizontal gathers stretched across the bodice front and back.



Photo by ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Strapless-Typically looks like the one pictured at left. Has no sleeves and is held up with boning inside the bodice.



Overlay-A spread of lightweight fabric or lace laid over top the bodice like the one pictured left.





photo by Ron Greystar



























Draped-Pictured above, like the surplice, this treatment can be attached from the shoulders or neckline. Also supported by an under bodice.
Surplice-Pictured bottom left, two wraps of fabric criss-crossing over the bust line, usually attached and/or supported by an under bodice. Big 1930s glam look with Jean Harlow struttin’ across the screen in her white crepe satin..
Corset-Bodice or vest usually with visible boning running vertically up the front and back. Laces up through eyelets either in front or back. While I’ve seen a few that hint at modesty complete with miniature rosebuds and bows, typically the corset belongs to the venturesome bride. Yes, a bodice all done up like a corset does have that Moulin Rougesque look; makes busty and heavier brides look voluptuous, everyone else a Can-Can dancer.


All gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum

WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?





Meet Gigi. There's something I've always loved about Chantilly lace. I wanted to do some kind of unususal draping with the skirt here while keeping the lace thing going. This allover lace bodice is hand beaded and has Swarvoski crystals dappled here and there.







Great option for a cocktail type wedding. Gigi could easily be worn with a veil, headpiece or hat. Easy to wear with a big knock-em-dead factor.

ACCESSORY SAVOIR-FAIRE

Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved

As far as accessorizing your gown with a hat, veil or headpiece, just add gloves, earrings and pearls for a real vogue look. The length of glove you choose really depends on your preference and the style of your gown. Typically, long gloves and wide brims suggest more of a high-fashion look — and short gloves and little hats and veils, a more ladylike appearance. Experiment. Getting the right look is all about your preference and trying out proportions until you find the ones you like.
As far as shoes go, it used to be a bride rarely wore sandals or open-toed pumps under her wedding gown. The closed toes were considered de rigueur as were stockings and few brides went without either. Fortunately, today you can go barefoot on the beach if you want. Sandals and thongs are not only an option, they too are considered chic.
Gown and hat by Amy-Jo Tatum